The Route: Grand Canal Hotel, Dublin to Ballygally Castle Hotel, Ballygally, Northern Ireland

The Plan:

I have been telling folks that the tour is similar to an ocean cruise that if you aren’t there when they pull out, you’ll be left behind.  That is one of the main reasons I wanted to stay at the Grand Canal Hotel, because at 08:10 we’re outta here!  I’ll have to make sure that I am packed and ready to check out after having a full Irish breakfast.  I think I should plan to be down in the dining room no later than 06:45 to eat, get back up to my room to get my bag, and then check out.  I think this is going to be the daily routine as we move from hotel to hotel frequently.  I think I’ll get in the habit of showering before bed to save on the morning chaos associated with all of that.  We’ll see how stinky I get .

Speaking of stinky, I have been “auditioning” clothing since the fall of 2023 to see how they would hold up to 15 days on the road with limited laundry facilities and also to be light in weight for carrying.  I have basically been looking at outdoor clothing like Columbia zip-off pants and lightweight fishing shirts which can serve many purposes.  I plan to buy an Irish sweater over there as a layer for warmth and I have also purchased a multi-purpose raincoat that can be used to adjust to the fickle Irish weather.  We’re roughly in the Mercedes van for an average of about three to four hours a day, so comfort is a priority over ruggedness. I purchased some waterproof boots that are lightweight and have been wearing them constantly here in our Maine winter to both break them in and also to test their claim of “waterproofness.”  Is that a real word?

I’m not one of those guys that needs to be first in line to get the best seat. There will be plenty of opportunities in the Mercedes tour vehicle to enjoy the ride. While I was initially writing this blog post, I went back and checked to see what direction we would be going.  I sent an email to the tour operators to see which direction we would be going and they confirmed it would be in the counter-clockwise direction deparing on June 11, 2024.   This is very important because there are two different itinerary documents and some of the attractions are adjusted based on the direction of travel.

Some people, when they think of Ireland, they think of, “The Troubles” that defined much of Ireland’s reputation on the world stage. “The Troubles” is the term used to describe the violent conflict that took place in Northern Ireland from the late 1960s to 1998, between the mainly Protestant unionists, who wanted to remain part of the United Kingdom, and the mainly Catholic nationalists, who wanted to join the Republic of Ireland. The conflict involved paramilitary groups, such as the Irish Republican Army (IRA) and the Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF), as well as the British and Irish security forces. The Troubles resulted in more than 3,500 deaths and thousands of injuries. The conflict was largely ended by the Good Friday Agreement of 1998, which established a power-sharing government in Northern Ireland and a cooperation between the UK and Ireland.

My people were from the Galway / County Mayo on the west coast of Ireland so we never really had much interest or awareness of what was happening in Northern Ireland.  That being said, it is still interesting to me and I’ve seen a few Irish TV movies describing what happened from a historic perspective.

This day’s tour will take us from the Grand Canal Hotel in Dublin and continue north to Ballygally in Antrim.  I’ll need to find an ATM to get some British pounds for walking-around money when we make a stop somewhere.

Our first castle we will tour is Hillsborough Castle and Gardens. Hillsborough Castle has been a grand family home and is now the official home of the Secretary of State for Northern Ireland, and a royal residence. Members of the Royal Family stay at Hillsborough when visiting Northern Ireland. Viewed by some as a politically neutral venue, Hillsborough has played an important role in the Peace Process in Northern Ireland since the 1980s.  It reminds me of the Downton Abbey kind of experience.  Nobody lives like this anymore regardless of how much money they have.

From there, we “roll into Belfast.” The tour recommends the Black Cab Tour as an optional extra, but there is a competing attraction in the Titanic Centre which is a self-guided tour. There has been so much done about the Titanic, I might go for the Black Cab Tour but I’ll see when I get there or when I get recommendations from the tour guide.  If I have any time left on my own, I’ll wander around until it’s time to board the van again.

Other sights the tour has identified and suggested are:

The Crown Bar. They recommend sneaking one (or two!) drinks at this historic gin palace while in Belfast. Restored to its Victorian glory, there really is nowhere else like it in Ireland.

Then there is the Boundary Brewing Co-op’s innovative collection of beers which plays to my craft beer sensibilities.

After what sounds like a full day, we will check into Ballygally Castle Hotel. Some of these Irish names are so lyrical, you wonder if they were made up by kindergartners. It is said to be haunted by a friendly ghost.  I wonder if it’s Casper. There are a lot of references to Game of Thrones in this area.  I’ll have to check it out.

If you’re not seeing ghosts, you’re obviously not spending enough time in the pubs:

Halfway House Hotel: This is one of the closest pubs to the hotel, only 0.5 miles away on Coast Road. It is a traditional pub with live music, a beer garden, and a wide selection of drinks and food.
Matties Meeting House: This is another nearby pub, 0.8 miles away on Brustin Brae Road. It is a country pub with great food and music on various nights of the week.
Olderfleet Bar & Lounge:42 Fleet St, Larne BT40 1BA, United Kingdom
The New Fairways Restaurant: This is a restaurant and bar located at Cairndhu Golf Club, 0.8 miles away on Coast Road. It offers a delicious menu of local produce and a scenic view of the sea.
Ruby’s Bar: This is a contemporary pub with a vintage style, 3.4 miles away on Old Glenarm Road. It hosts live music, comedy, and DJ nights, and serves tasty food and drinks.
Billy Andy’s: This is a fusion gastropub with a friendly staff, 6.3 miles away on Browndod Road. It serves Irish, Bar, British, and Pub cuisines, and is known for its beautiful home cooking.
The Dairy: This is a gem in the Gleno, 6.8 miles away on Waterfall Road. It is a cosy cafe and restaurant with a fireplace, a garden, and a mouthwatering menu.

What Actually Happened:

The Route: Ballygally Castle Hotel, Ballygally, Northern Ireland to Bishop’s Gate Hotel Derry/Londerry, Northern Ireland

The Plan:

After our Irish breakfast, we’ll board the Mercedes Tour Van. We’ll be taking the Causeway Coastal Route which is supposedly spectacular.  There will be so many spectacular experiences on this trip, I’m going to be either jaded or spoiled.

Giant’s Causway, Giant’s Causeway, Giants Causeway!!! It’s one of the most referred to sites in all of Ireland both North and South. Legend has it that the giants loathed each other. And so one day after enduring insults from Benandonner, Fionn built a path to use as stepping-stones to reach Scotland, which was then ripped up by Benandonner. The result was the Giant’s Causeway.  If you meet any of these guys in a pub, you better be buying a round.

There is a shuttle from the parking lot which I might take instead of the 1.6 mile walk which is very steep both ways. There is a cost for this, but it’s cheaper than a heart attack.

Today’s journey is from Ballygally, Antrim to Derry/Londonderry (These are always referred to together, I’ll find out why).

One of my most important bucket list items is a tour of Bushmills distillery.  This is one of the Optional Extra (£££) attractions which means it is not covered by the tour. It is the oldest licensed whiskey distillery in the world.  Of all of the Irish whiskeys I’ve tried, Bushmills Black is my favorite.  This is more important to me than visiting Jameson’s which I think I’ll hit when I get back to Dublin.  This could be good place to buy a bottle to have along with me for the rest of the trip.  Maybe I’ll find a nice Bushmills flask.

In true Irish form, we’ll then go to a clifftop and visit Dunluce Castle. After a few snorts of Bushmills whiskey, wouldn’t everyone want to go to a clifftop to look over the edge? Over its history, Dunluce Castle has witnessed some of Ireland’s most tumultuous and violent periods. The castle’s main structure was built by the McQuillan clan in 1500 and was hotly contested by their rivals, Clan McDonnell, who eventually seized the prized location in the mid-1500s. With its past littered with bloody feuds, it’s no surprise that over time, ghostly murmurings have emerged about Dunluce’s lonely old ruins.

Eventually, we’ll head through the gates of the walled city of Derry/Londonderry and head to the Bishop’s Gate Hotel .

Nearby pubs are:

– The Rocking Chair: 15-17 Waterloo St, Londonderry BT48 6HA, United Kingdom, 3 minute walk, 0.2 km
– Lizzie O’Farrell’s: 26 Waterloo St, Londonderry BT48 6HF, United Kingdom, 4 minute walk, 0.2 km
– Dungloe Bar: 41-43 Waterloo St, Londonderry BT48 6HD, United Kingdom, 4 minute walk, 0.2 km
– The Harp Bar: Waterloo St, Londonderry BT48, United Kingdom, 5 minute walk, 0.2 km
– Peadar O’Donnell’s: 63 Waterloo St, Londonderry BT48 6HD, United Kingdom, 5 minute walk, 0.2 km
– The Bentley Bar: 1-3 Market St, Londonderry BT48 6EF, United Kingdom, 2 minutes, 0.2 km
– Badger’s Bar and Restaurant: 18 Orchard St, Londonderry BT48 6EG, United Kingdom, 2 minutes, 0.2 km
– The Blackbird: 24 Foyle St, Londonderry BT48 6AL, United Kingdom, 7 minute walk, 0.3 km

What Actually Happened:

The Route: Bishop’s Gate Hotel, Derry/Londonerry to Mount Falcon Estate, Mount Falcon, County Mayo

The Plan:

After Irish breakfast, we’ll take a guided walking tour of Derry/Londonderry.  I hope we are walking from pub to pub but we’ll have to see. Maybe we’ll get a chance to catch our breath at the Walled City Brewhouse.

Today, we will leave Northern Ireland. While we are here, we will be touring Sligo later in the day.  This is funny to me because we know people who live off various roads in Maine and New Hampshire called Sligo Road. I wonder if our friends know the origin of their neighborhood street names.

Nearby is a very famous historic site, Grianán of Aileach.  The origins of the Grianán of Aileach fort are dated back to 1700 BC. It is linked to the Tuatha de Danann who invaded Ireland before the Celts and built stone forts on top of strategic hills. The round fort is built largely without mortar. The interior has three terraces and wooden structures were built against the terraces to provide accommodation. The outline of Bronze Age or Iron Age ramparts can be seen below the fort. Legend states that the giants of Inishowen are lying sleeping but when the sacred sword is removed they will spring to life reclaiming their ancient lands.  Billy, keep your hands off the sword.

We’ll then head into Donegal town to visit Donegal Castle.  The website for this castle says it is closing on November 28, 2023 until further notice for renovations.  Hmmmm.  I wonder what our alternate options are going to be.  Maybe it reopened but the website wasn’t updated.

The hotel for tonight is one of the most intriguing ones on our tour. The Mount Falcon Estate is an active falconry along with the opportunity to fish or shoot skeet.  They also have a “forest bathing experience” and a “woodland sound bath” whatever the hell those are.  The falcon and owl experiences are something I am going to look into if it make sense schedulewise.   Just being near them could be very very cool.  Maybe I can get some pictures. This hotel looks like the complete experience on their own grounds.  Let’s just hope they can live up to their reputation.  I’m optimistic.

Pubs (not really) near the Mount Falcon Estate require a drive for the most part so this might be a night to stick around the estate.  Some pubs not nearby are (just in case):

– Paddy Mac’s: Garden St, Ballina, Co. Mayo, Ireland
– Bar Square: Garden St, Ballina, Co. Mayo, Ireland, Literally shares a wall with Paddy Mac’s
– Brennan’s Lane: 47 Garden St, Ballina, Co. Mayo, Ireland
– Rouse’s Bar: 53 Pearse St, Ballina, Co. Mayo, F26 T042, Ireland

I’ll probably stick around the estate and have a relatively early night to catch up on my sleep plus the rooms look pretty deluxe.

Get some rest cowboy.

What actually happened:

The Route: Mount Falcon Estate to Clifden Station House Hotel, Clifden, Ireland

The Plan:

Let’s just assume that every day starts with an Irish breakfast, so I’ll stop reminding you at this point.  Back in the van, we head to Westport.  You could spend a whole weekend in Westport near Clew Bay, but we’ll just have time to make a quick pit stop (bathroom? pint?).

The next stop is something I’m a little afraid of.  We’re going to Mirrusk Abbey where nearby is the holy mountain of Croagh Patrick where is says you lose a sin with every step.  I don’t know if my legs can hold out that long given my lifetime of being naughty.  It would be a long march for me.

Back in the van and we’re cruising onto the Doolough Valley which is one of Ireland’s most scenic drives. A trip through the Doolough Valley is a special experience. Nestled between high mountains, there are two lakes along which the Wild Atlantic Way winds its way. The untouched nature creates a unique idyll. At the northern end of the valley, right next to the road, there is a cross built in memory of the victims of the “Doolough Tragedy”. During the great famine in 1849 hundreds of needy inhabitants of Louisburgh set off on foot to Delphi Lodge to seek food from the authorities there. However, they were harshly rejected. On the way back to Louisburgh, many of them died of hunger and frost in the Doolough Valley.  I don’t know why but this sounds like an Irish holocaust.

The Irish must love their sheep because today is offering another farm tour and sheepdog demo.  I’m cool with it though as I said before that I think these doggies are cool. I guess we’re heading to Tom Nee’s sheep farm in Connemara.  “Discover the timeless tradition of sheep farming and the integral role our working dogs play in the success of our operations. Watch sheep dog demonstrations with us on an authentic sheep farm tour in Ireland. You may get to cuddle a puppy or even try shearing wool! At Killary Sheep Farm, we extend an invitation for you to witness the extraordinary bond between humans and animals, turning each tour into a celebration of rural life. It’s where hard work, dedication, and the joy of a well-trained dog come together in a delightful spectacle.”  What more could you want? The itinerary says this activity is something that already happened on day five so this may not even happen this day.  I just put it in here because it’s something I would do twice if we had to.

We’ll be staying at the Clifden Station House Hotel this night.  Some other pub options in the Connemara area are:

Lowry’s Bar: 0.2 km. This is an iconic Irish pub that offers live music, whiskey, and gin. It was voted the best traditional bar in Ireland in 2019, 2018, and 2015.
Mullarkey’s Bar: 3 km. This is a cozy bar that is part of Foyle’s Hotel, but open to the public. It is known for its open-mic sessions, impromptu gigs, and good craic.
The Signal Bar: 0.4 km. This is a casual bar and restaurant that is located on the grounds of the Station House Hotel. It serves traditional Irish dishes and locally brewed beers.
Guy’s Bar & Snug: 0.5 km. This is a traditional pub that has small intimate snugs and corners. It serves pub grub, Irish, and European dishes, as well as coffees and drinks.

What Actually Happened:

The Route: Today we explore around the Clifden area.  Destinations TBD

The Plan:

If the Portland Head Light was emblematic of Maine (and probably the whole USA based on calendar shots), Kylemore Abbey in Connemara takes the prize here in Ireland.  Just like the fictional Downton Abbey, the Irish estate and grounds are something that are irreplacable. Kylemore Castle was built in the late 1800s by Mitchell Henry MP, a wealthy businessman, and liberal politician. Inspired by his love for his wife Margaret, and his hopes for his beloved Ireland, Henry created an estate boasting ‘all the innovations of the modern age’. An enlightened landlord and vocal advocate of the Irish people, Henry poured his life’s energy into creating an estate that would showcase what could be achieved in the remote wilds of Connemara. Today Kylemore Abbey is owned and run by the Benedictine community who have been in residence here since 1920.

We won’t be doing too much driving on this day, but we’ll fit in a visit to Inaugh Valley.  I’ll need to keep reminding myself to take pictures as I will be distracted by one of the most scenic drives in the world! There is a photo opportunity at every turn as the Inagh Valley road wends its way through the majestic heather covered mountains of the Twelve Bens from the Maamturks which are separated by the valley and its picturesque lakes. The vista is ever-changing from day to day as the slightest change in the weather is reflected in the lakes and mountains. This is the second leg (30km) of the Western Way which winds its way down from Mam Éan along the valley, past wonderful scenery and then takes a right turn back towards Killary Harbour and Leenaun to where the section ends.

Weather and time permitting, we’ll make a stop to learn about the peat bogs.  My cousin Matty dug peat when he visited Ireland probably 40 years ago and I remember the pictures.  For some reason I seem to recall a slide show (remember them) in our living room of his trip.

We’ll be staying at the Clifden Station House Hotel again for this night.  Some other pub options in the Connemara area are:

– Paddy Coynes Pub in Tullycross, a cozy and historic pub with turf fires, live music, and food.
– Lowry’s Bar in Clifden, a vibrant and award-winning pub with a large whiskey selection, gigs, and craic.
– Veldons Seafarer in Letterfrack, a charming and atmospheric pub with memorabilia of the first transatlantic flight, a seafood-focused menu, and a beer garden.
– Mannions Bar in Clifden, a family-run bar and restaurant serving locally sourced seafood and traditional Irish favorites.

What Actually Happened:

The Route: Clifden Station House Hotel to Lahinch Coast Hotel, Dough, Counth Clare, Ireland

The Plan:

I don’t know if my pint is half-empty or half-full, but Day 6 marks the hump day of our tour and it should be called Castle Day.  Is there a castle on every corner like Waffle House?

We head out from Clifden and attack the Aughnanure Castle.  Their website says they are closed but who knows? In 1546 the O’Flahertys joined forces with the Mayo O’Malleys when Donal an Chogaidh O’Flaherty married Grace O’Malley, later known as Granuaile, the formidable pirate queen. The O’Malley motto, ‘Powerful by land and by sea,’ showed the awe in which that family, too, was held. At Aughnanure today we  can inspect the remains of a banqueting hall, a watch tower, an unusual double bawn and bastions and a dry harbour. Keep your eyes peeled for glimpses of the three species of bat that now live in the castle.

When I was growing up, my mother always confused me when one time she would say we were from Galway and other times she would say we were from Mayo.  Well today, I’m going to check out Galway to see what’s happenin.’  After sacking Augnnanure, we’ll lay seige to Dunguaire Castle (I gotta admit, trying to pronounce these bastions is a tongue twister). In 1954 the castle was acquired by Christobel Lady Amptill who completed the restoration started by Oliver St. John Gogarty. Subsequently the castle became the property of Shannon Heritage. Today the restored castle gives an insight into the lifestyle of the people who lived from 1520 to modern times. From April to October you can enjoy fabulous entertainment and locally sourced food at the renowned castle banquet.

We are off to The Burren!   The vast, moon-like Burren in County Clare is one of Ireland’s most compelling landscapes. Here, cool grey rock etched with crevices and cracks tumbles down to the wild blue Atlantic Ocean. The result is one of nature’s most extraordinary phenomena: a huge rocky pavement dotted with rock formations, caves and fossils, as well as an incredible array of flowers, from native species to Arctic, Alpine and Mediterranean plants.  Houston, The Eagle has landed.

At last, we will have our minds, bodies, eyes, ears, and noses blown.  No, not that kind of nose blowing, but an amazing sensory experience on the world famous Cliffs of Moher.  The Cliffs of Moher tower over the rugged west Clare coast. We’ll walk the safe, paved pathways and view the famous Cliffs on Europe’s western frontier and enjoy the spectacular vistas over the Atlantic Ocean and the Aran Islands. Their natural beauty has inspired artists, musicians, and poets for generations, as well as absorbing scientists and geologists, drawn by the unique landscape in which they sit. The Cliffs of Moher, the most famous cliffs in Ireland, will leave you awestruck, creating memories that will stay with you forever.

We’re gonna start to feel the exertion of being on the road six days and seeing and doing EVERYTHING. This night we will lay our heads down at the Lahinch Coast Hotel. The Lahinch Coast Hotel is a Four Star Spacious Hotel in the coastal village of Lahinch Co. Clare with Leisure Centre and Swimming Pool. The hotel has undergone a stylish new look and redesign to its Reception, Drawing Room, Spacious Lounges and popular “Gastro Style” Aberdeen Bar & Restaurant. These modern areas are relaxing and spacious which capture the style of the wonderful coastal seaside village of Lahinch.

Pubs nearby are:

– Slattery’s Bar: 45 meters, 1 minute walk
– The Corner Stone Bar: 140 meters, 2 minute walk
– Danny Mac’s: 200 meters, 3 minute walk
– The Nineteenth Bar, 210 meters, 3 minute walk
– Flanagans Bar: 0.2 km
– Kenny’s Bar: 0.2 km
– The Nineteenth Bar: 0.3 km
– O’Looneys Bar: 0.4 km
– Vaughan’s Anchor Inn: 0.5 km

Pubs directly in Galway:
The Front Door
Crane Bar
Taaffes
O’Conners
The Quays
The King’s Head

What Actually Happened:

The Route: Lahinch Coast Hotel to Dingle Benners Hotel, Dingle, County Kerry, Ireland

The Plan:

After breakfast, it’s back on the magic carpet and heading toward and through the Clare coastline. Ever since surfing first exploded onto the Irish scene well over a decade ago, Lahinch has been the spiritual (and commercial) hub of surfing in Ireland. Venture south and you have the brown sugar sands at Spanish Point. Head north, and there’s the terracotta fringe of Fanore. Now all you need to do is get wet. When it comes to clubs and rolling greens, Dr Martin Hawtree’s famous links golf course in Doonbeg offers an 18-hole championship circuit. While Ennis Golf Club and Lahinch Golf Club are relaxing retreats perfect for the novice or expert golfer.  We won’t be golfing here, but who knows, we may find ourselves in the area for a pint.

We will take a ferry across the mouth of the Shannon River which is the longest river in Ireland to arrive in “The Kingdom” of Kerry.  We may visit the South Pole Inn for a pint and find out more about the Irish explorer of Antartica, Tom Crean.  Who knows?

Are we about to arrive in Heaven?  We’re staying over this night in Dingle.  There is a pub for every 40 residents here!  This is what Ireland is all about.  Our lodging for the night is in the Dingle Benners Hotel.  Mrs. Benner’s Bar is the onsite pub and could be an option.  Being that there are SO MANY pubs in Dingle, it is important to know and try some:

– The Dingle Pub on Main Street, a large and lively pub with nightly music gigs, a pool table, and a bed and breakfast. It is about 0.1 km or 1 minute walk from the hotel.
– Nelligan’s Bar: 69 meters, 1 minute walk from the hotel
– An Droichead Beag: 110 meters, 1 minute walk from hotel
– Dick Mack’s Pub & Brewery on Green Street, a cozy and historic pub with its own brewery and taphouse, open fires, and a mini ‘walk of fame’. It is about 0.2 km or 2 minutes walk from the hotel.
– O’Sullivan’s Courthouse Pub on The Mall, a traditional and friendly pub with turf fires, live music, and food. It is about 0.3 km or 4 minutes walk from the hotel.
– Foxy John’s on Main Street, a unique pub and hardware store with turf fires, live music, and food. It is about 0.5 km or 6 minutes walk from the hotel.

What Actually Happened:

The Route: We will stay at the Dingle Benners Hotel in Dingle for another night

The Plan:

 Downtime!?! Downtime!?!  I want to GO GO GO!!!  I guess these guys know what they’re doing and maybe it will give me some time to browse shops or if I have to, get some laundry done.  Some options are taking a boat trip around Dingle Bay or visit the Dingle Crystal Studio.  Maybe I can find my barware there. This might also be a good day to find and purchase my next Irish sweater (jumper) that I will target while there.  Shopping is not my thing, but buying is so maybe I can get some good advice from the tour guides or others I meet along the way.

I don’t know if they are going to provide us with a drive around Slea Head or see the Blasket Islands or the holy Mount Brandon, but these are surpises waiting to happen.  Mount Brandon is a premier hiking destination.  Maybe I can look upon it from below like looking up at the Matterhorn on a nice day with a pint in my hand.

Of course, there are always pubs to keep me amused. Some of the more famous ones are below. I won’t list a description of them here but hopefully I’ll have some tales to tell of the ones that I happen to land in:

An Droichead Beag
Dick Mack’s Pub & Brewery
The Dingle Pub
Foxy John’s
John Benny’s ‬
Kennedy’s
Kruger’s Pub, Dingle
Lord Baker’s
The Marina Inn ‬
Murphy’s Pub
O’Flaherty’s Pub Dingle

Since this is s a “Free Time” day, we’ll stay the night again in the Dingle Benners Hotel.  At least I won’t have to pack and rush in the morning.

What Actually Happend:

The Route: Dingle Benners Hotel to Eccles Hotel & Spa, Glengarriff, Ireland

The Plan:

Keeping to the coast, we’ll take a scenic drive along the Dingle Peninsula.  Push out beyond the town and you’re faced with an incredible 6,000 years of history and the Kerry coastline with its pounding waves, salty winds, dramatic cliffs and wide racing skies. There’s Gallarus Oratory, an Early Christian church overlooking the rippling blue waters of Smerwick Harbour; there’s Coumeenoole Beach, with its haunting views of the Blasket Islands; and there’s the Conor Pass, the highest mountain road in Ireland. Exceptional is everyday here.  I know this would be my wife’s favorite activity to take a horse-drawn carriage ride around the Killarney National Park.

Later in the day, we’ll arrive at The Eccles Hotel in Glengarriff Harbour.

Pubs nearby are:

Coasties: Situated approximately 0.6 kilometers away, Coasties is known for its American and Irish cuisine, including fantastic toasties (grilled cheese).
Casey’s Bar and Restaurant: Just 0.8 kilometers from Eccles Hotel, this spot offers wonderful Irish and European fare.
MacCarthy’s Bar: Found at Glengarrif Park Hotel, it’s about 0.7 kilometers from Eccles Hotel. Enjoy Irish pub vibes here.
Jack’s Restaurant: Located 0.8 kilometers from Eccles Hotel, this Irish pub is known for its seafood and cozy ambiance.

What Actually Happened:

The Route: Eccles Hotel to Gougane Barra Hotel, Derreennacusha, Ireland

The Plan:

We’re almost done with our trip and I expect it will be amazing.  Since I’m writing this in February of 2024, all of the planning sections of these entries are hopeful as  opposed to experienced.  From all that I have read, seen, and heard, I’m in for a fantastic trip with whatever is remaining of my lifetime of memories.  This will be the last night staying in lodging associated with the tour.  After today, it’s back to Dublin and the Grand Canal Hotel as a base of operations.

At this point, we’re south of Dublin, traveling north.  We’ll use our luxurious travel van to navigate the rugged roads of the Beara Peninsula.  Although the Beara Peninsula is one of the most beautiful places to visit in West Cork, many visiting the area tend to skip it. Which is a shame for them, and great for those in the know. The Beara Peninsula is much quieter than many of its neighbouring peninsulas and the scenery is just as good (if not better!).  I have tried not to draw too many comparisons to Maine, but “heah” we say, “You can’t get theyah from heah.” because of all the peninsulas that jut out into the Atlantic.  The rugged coast of Ireland is similar to this.

One of the optional activities is to take a boat trip to Garnish Island.  The island is a horticultural paradise with stunning gardens, pools and shrubs planted 70 years ago by owner Annan Bryce and landscape architect Harold Peto. It was bequeathed to the Irish people in 1953 and now beautifully maintained by the Office of Public Works.  Credit cards are not accepted on the island, so you’ll need to carry some cash with you for the admission fee and for the café on the island.

After this boat trip, we’ll cruise through Healy Pass.  To drive the serpentine-like road without stopping will take most people between 20-25 minutes. However, the drive is very scenic and it’ll take longer. It’s one of the Ireland’s greatest drives with beautiful views over Bantry Bay and the Kenmare river. The mountain landscape is breathtaking. The road winds through a desolate, otherworldly landscape, passing between two of the highest summits in the Caha mountain range. It is a very nice road that winds through the mountains at the west coast of Ireland. Well worth a visit. Views are great on both sides of the pass. It’s difficult to drive around Beara and not want to take lots of panoramic shots.

We will visit the stately Bantry House before going to our hotel.  Bantry House and Garden is a stately home overlooking Bantry Bay in the south west of Ireland. The House has been home to the White family, since 1739 and was opened to the public in 1946. They have an important private collection of furniture and objects of art. The Estate is a popular wedding and events venue, visitors can explore the formal garden, visit the House, enjoy a picnic basket from our Tearoom, have Afternoon Tea in the Library and stay in the East Wing. The Estate is unique since it is still lived in and managed by the family.

Our options for lodging are the Gougane Barra Hotel in Cork or the Macroom Castle Hotel in Macroom village.

Gougane Barra Hotel is a fifth-generation family-run hotel well known for its warm welcome, great team from all over the world, wholesome food, personal service and welcoming and relaxed atmosphere. Tucked away in a romantic, glaciated valley in the south-west of Ireland and surrounded by mountains, the hotel is situated in a breath-taking position on the edge of Gougane Barra lake, right next to St Finbarr’s island oratory.  If the pictures on their website do it any justice, this will be breathtaking.

Pubs nearby the Gougane Barra Hotel are:

Cronin’s Bar & Cafe: Located just 36 meters away from the Gougane Barra Hotel!  Cronin’s offers a cozy atmosphere and serves Irish cuisine. It’s a lovely spot for a meal or a drink.
Gougane Barra Restaurant: Situated approximately 200 meters from the hotel, this restaurant offers both Irish and international dishes. It’s a great place to enjoy a meal with scenic views.

Alternately, we might stay at the Macroom Castle Hotel.  Nestled between Cork city, Blarney, Killarney and West Cork’s world-famous coastline, this charming hotel offers the ideal base from which to explore an abundance of amazing activities on Ireland’s South-West. The Castle is famous country-wide for its take on sustainable Irish food. Come visit Macroom and experience a genuine Irish welcome from The Buckley Family, fabulous food and all the modern facilities you would expect from a multi award-winning 4 star Hotel.

Pubs near Macroom are:

Dineen’s Bar: Located at 20 Main Street, Dineen’s Bar is approximately 36 meters away from your location. It’s a cozy spot where you can enjoy Irish cuisine and drinks.
T. P. Cotter’s: Situated on 14 Main Street, Cotter T P is another option, about 200 meters from your location. It’s a place to unwind and enjoy a drink.
O’Neill’s Bar: W23V+W6 Macroom, Sleveen East, County Cork, Ireland

What Actually Happened:

The Route: Gougane Barra Hotel to Grand Canal Hotel, Dublin, Ireland (3 hr 38 minutes by car or 55 minutes by plane!)

The Plan:

Can we turn around, I think I lost something in Dingle?  Do you think the tour will retrace our route for an excuse as weak as that one?  I’m seeing a light at the bottom of my pint.

It’s both sad and exciting that our tour is coming to a close.  This is the last official day of the tour, but not my last day in Ireland.  As we head back to the city, we’ll go through the River Lee valley. Geographically, the area that known as the Lee Valley comprises the catchment area of the River Lee, incorporating within its borders the distinct valleys of its major tributaries including the Sullane, Foherish, Laney and others. The Lee rises in the hills above Gougane Barra, the spot that St Finbarr chose for his 7th century hermitage which today remains a centre of pilgrimage. After many riverine adventures the Lee joins the sea below Cork City which was also founded by the Saint. The journey of the river mimics the saints own life-journey from a hermetic and idyllic setting among the Shehy Mountains – one of the most spectacularly beautiful settings in Ireland – to the busy, people centred city of Cork, also known as the ‘real capital’ of Ireland.

The Cork to Dublin distance is 260 km or 162 miles. The journey should take around two hours and fifty minutes.

We’ll then visit Blarney Castle to kiss the famous Blarney Stone. The term ‘blarney’, meaning beguiling but misleading talk, gained currency during the 16th century as the MacCarthy of the day attempted to fend off the demands of Queen Elizabeth I. Legends about the Stone’s origin emerged, each as plausible as the next. It was said to have been the stone used by Jacob as a pillow when he dreamed of the ladder extending up to heaven with angels ascending and descending on it, and that it was brought from the Holy Land after the Crusades. Kissing the Blarney Stone is a popular tradition that has been around for several centuries. According to legend, kissing the stone endows the kisser with the gift of eloquence and persuasiveness . The stone was set into a tower of the castle in 1446 by Dermot McCarthy, king of Munster, on the site of a demolished 13th century castle.

As one of our last experiences, we’ll enjoy a self-guided tour of the Rock of Cashel .  Set on a dramatic outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale, the Rock of Cashel, iconic in its historic significance, possesses the most impressive cluster of medieval buildings in Ireland. Among the monuments to be found there is a round tower, a high cross, a Romanesque chapel, a Gothic cathedral, an abbey, the Hall of the Vicars Choral and a fifteenth-century Tower House. Originally the seat of the kings of Munster, according to legend St. Patrick himself came here to convert King Aenghus to Christianity. Brian Boru was crowned High King at Cashel in 978 and made it his capital.

The end of the tour will occur back at the Grand Canal Hotel around 17:00.  I hope I have the energy to head back out after checking in.  I will only have the next day, Saturday, June 22,2024 to squeeze in as much as I can.

Pubs nearby the Grand Canal Hotel (for starting or ending points) are:

1. Kennedy’s Pub & Restaurant: This 150-year-old, family-owned city centre pub is located a stone’s throw from Trinity College.
2. The Gasworks: Founded in 2009, this independently owned and operated brewery is based in Galway.
3. The Ferryman: This hotel offers a charming environment alongside many helpful amenities.
4. Slattery’s D4: Located in the heart of Beggars Bush, Slattery’s Pub is passionate about providing an enjoyable experience to everyone that walks through its doors.

What Actually Happened:

The Route: Walking around Dublin, direction of travel TBD

The Plan:

There are “plans” and there are “reservations.” Plans are fluid and can be what you stumble upon as you stroll through the town. Reservations are fixed appointments and commitments.  For today’s schedule, I’ll identify where I have made reservations and then plan for attractions before and after them that make sense.

Morning:
Start your day with a visit to Trinity College and see the Book of Kells.
Take a stroll across the iconic Ha’Penny Bridge.
10:00 Head to the Guinness Storehouse St. James’s Gate, Dublin 8, D08 VF8H, Ireland for a tour and a pint. Stoutie tour – Booking reference: 901776575

Afternoon:
Visit the General Post Office (GPO) for a tour.

Evening:
End your day with a walk around the Temple Bar neighborhood.

The Irish Pub Guide

Pubs nearby Trinity College are:

O’donoghue’s Bar: Located at 15 Suffolk Street, Dublin, 2. It’s open from 10:30 to 23:30 from Monday to Saturday, and from 11:00 to 23:30 on Sunday.

O’Neills Pub & Kitchen: Located at 2 Suffolk Street, Dublin, D02 KX03. It’s open from 11:00 to 23:30 from Monday to Thursday, from 10:30 to 00:30 on Friday and Saturday, and from 11:00 to 23:00 on Sunday.

Davy Byrnes: Located at 21 Duke Street, Dublin, D02 K380. It’s open from 12:00 to 23:30 from Monday to Thursday, from 12:00 to 00:30 on Friday and Saturday, and from 12:00 to 23:00 on Sunday.

The Old Storehouse Bar & Restaurant: Located at 3 Crown Alley, Dublin, D02 Cx67. It’s open from 12:00 to 00:00 from Monday to Thursday, from 12:00 to 02:00 on Friday and Saturday, and from 12:00 to 00:00 on Sunday.

J.R. Mahon’s: 1-2 Burgh Quay – Traditional Irish Pub. North of Trinity College towards the River Liffey

The Palace Bar: Also near Trinity College, 21 Fleet Street, No TV or Food!

Mulligan’s: 8 Poolbeg Street, Traditional Irish Pub

Pubs near the General Post Office are:

Darkey Kelly’s Bar & Restaurant: Located on Fishamble St, Dublin 2, this pub is known for its traditional Irish music. It’s situated in one of the oldest parts of Dublin city.

Neary’s: A UNESCO City of Literature Bar, Neary’s has a long connection to the arts, thanks to its proximity to the Gaiety Theatre.

Grogan’s: Located on the corner of South William Street, Grogan’s is one of the more famous pubs in Dublin and it’s been serving locals and tourists alike since 1899.

John Kavanagh’s (The Gravediggers): Established in 1833, John Kavanagh’s is one of the more unique pubs Dublin has to offer, and you’ll find it in Glasnevin.

McGettigans Pub & Townhouse: This pub is perfect for groups exploring Dublin’s culture or for businesses planning an event.

Pubs nearby Temple Bar (but maybe not IN Temple Bar):

The Palace Bar: This is one of the oldest pubs in Dublin, dating back to 1823. It’s located on Fleet Street and is known for its whiskey bar, the ‘Whiskey Palace’.
The Foggy Dew: This Victorian pub, located on Fownes Street Upper, dates back to 1901. It’s known for its great live music and impressive collection of rock memorabilia.
The Auld Dubliner: Located in the heart of Temple Bar, this pub is known for its lively music sessions and traditional Dublin dish of boiled streaky bacon, sausages, and potatoes.
The Porterhouse Temple Bar: This pub is located in Temple Bar and is known for its beer.
Bad Bobs: This pub is located in Temple Bar and is known for its spaciousness.
The Ha’penny Bridge Inn: This pub is located in Temple Bar and is known for its authentic Irish pub atmosphere.
Merchant’s Arch Bar: This pub is located in Temple Bar and is known for its cozy and welcoming atmosphere.
The Bankers Bar: This pub is located on Trinity Street off busy Dame Street.
The Brazen Head: 20 Lower Bridge Street, Meeting place for historic rebels, this brass-filled, lantern-lit pub hosts live music each night.

Pubs North of the River Liffey:
Murray’s Bar: 33 O’Connell Street North of Ha’penny Bridge
The Oval Bar: 78 Middle Abbey St., Near the O’Connell Monument
Cobblestone: 77 King Street – Near Jameson Distillery Bow Street – Ticket Required

Consider getting a Leap Visitor Card for unlimited travel on Dublin City Bus, the Luas, and the DART.

From the itinerary, here are the recommendations for the best Irish pubs in Dublin.    I’ll probably make my plan to tour Dublin based on the proximity to one or more of these pubs.  My dream plan is to stop, have a pint, get out and walk around, stop in another place, have a pint, lather rinse repeat.

What Actually Happened:

The Route: DUB Airport to BOS Airport

The Plan:

To be filled in soon.  Just the trip back to Boston and Maine. Boring. I hoped you made it this far to be disappointed in this listing which is basically empty for now!

What Actually Happened: